Blogs and Tips
|Posted on 19 June, 2020 at 2:05||comments (5)|
I believe in being honest, perhaps someone reading this will not like what i'm going to say, especially Nissan lovers. There's a few models out there today that I won't touch, I won't even Service them. These vehicles are
Nissan Navara, Nissan Xtrail, Old Nissan Pulsars, Great Wall, Holden Astra, Holden Barina, Holden Cruze, Holden Rodeo (RA), Holden 4wd's including Colorado, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Landrover, VW. Iveco, Mitsubishi V6's such as Magnas are a big no no with me.
The reason why I won't work on them is I don't agree with how they are made, the engineering is not designed for Australian climates and roads, they are not built to last and some repairs are almost impossible to do on my own. And when you been a Mechanic for 36 years, you pretty much know what to stay away from. For example a Great Wall with engine problems, no information on them, the Chinese do not share repair information, every other Car maker does, not Great Wall. They are a pile of rubbish, so if you have one, don't call me.
I also have a problem working on Backpackers vehicles. I found out how most Backpackers Vehicles stay on the road. They sell the car with a P.O. Box key and the rego renewal slip, so when it's due they simply pay the rego, mainly WA registrations and they go around Australia yet again and it's years that a mechanic has touched them or inspected them for safety. Most of them are death traps and some 'patch up work' i've seen amazes me how some of this cars make it down the road yet around Australia. They are too much of a liability as when you accept the repair, they only want 2nd hand parts, i've even been asked to fit second hand brake pads! Can't do that sorry!
So that's as about as Honest as anyone can get, and I don't do RWC either! But what I can do is deliver you the best possible professional Service or Repair without the hype and the overheads of decieving $100 services designed to give your car back with a list of 'work needed' I've re-inspected these 'list's written by some of our 'trusting' local Mechanic's and found 90% of what they write doesn't need 'immeadiate' repairs and some things I find nothing wrong with it. So if you want a straight forward repair or service with no hidden traps or gimmickry, then give Old John here a try.
|Posted on 21 May, 2020 at 18:00||comments (5)|
O2 sensors measure the burn rate of the exhaust gasses. This information is sent to the computer to calculate the intake of fuel and air for the next combustion stroke. If you have scanned your car and found an O2 sensor code, it doesn't mean the O2 sensor is always faulty. If you use the term 'We are what we eat' then this also applies to your car. If you have bad fuel or cheap 91 fuel in your tank then the combustion burn will no be as high as good 98 fuel. If you look at fuel rates, 91 means only 91% of the fuel will be burnt, another 4 to 5% of the fuel will recirculate and burn up eventually but the remainer 3% will deposit as sludge and gradually build up in your intake and throttle body. If the O2 sensor comes up as faulty, remove the sensor and check for unburnt carbon deposits. cleaning the O2 can save you heaps
|Posted on 2 March, 2020 at 16:20||comments (21)|
In Cairns, inside vehicle temperature can reach 120 cel, most people jump into the hot car, turn on the A/C and drive away without giving it another thought.
Every vehicle is fitted with a recircualtion/vent switch. There is a reason for this. When you get into the hot vehicle you should wind the windows down, put the vent on fresh and run until the majority of hot air inside the vehicle is despirsed. you will feel it when it's cooler, then wind the windows up and put on recirc.
By turning on the AC and recirculating hot air this puts more stress onto the engine as the AC compressor takes longer cycles to cool the cabin of the vehicle. This means more stress on the AC system, more stress on the engine and more fuel used to cool the car. The fuel used to cool when on recirc is excessive, it may cost you only 30 cents extra but think of that cost when you stop and start over a 6 month period. Makes sense to operate the AC the proper way than to pour your money down the drain.
|Posted on 2 March, 2020 at 16:05||comments (0)|
When you turn off your car and park it for the day or night, all the oil in the engine drains back into the sump, the coolant cools and the thermostat closes.
In the morning when you start it up and drive it straight away, without giving it enought time to warm up you are actually causing premature wear and tear on your engine.
You may say that warming your engine is an old fashioned way of doing things, but warming up is actually written in most manuals you get when you buy your car. Loading up is a term that means you stress the engine or put load onto the engine, if you load it up when cold, or drop it into drive and drive it straight away the lubrication hasn't had sufficient time to get through all the oil galleries, the engine revs slightly higher as its cold and more fuel is deposited until warm up is completed.
All you need to do is start you car and wait until the temp guage gets to normal operating temp, then drive it. This way you don't stress out the engine, you will get better fuel economy and performance and reduce wear and tear on your engine. This applies to any engine from a ferarri to a lawn mower, regardless what engine oil you use, even aircraft need to warm up before flying, it makes sense to warm your engine up before you use it.
|Posted on 17 January, 2020 at 21:20||comments (25)|
When going to change a drive belt on these models they are a nightmare, Usually the little shock absorber tensioner fails and you will need to change the whole tensioner. People go for the cheaper part so the cheapest part is a Gates 39214 Drive belt tesioner, however when you buy this cheap part you need to add the drive belt that they say suits the pulley @ $90.00 as the pulley is larger than the original. Next problem is the design of this engine as all the pulleys the drive belt runs on have what we call belt keepers. Belt keepers are a higher ridge pulley designed to keep the belt true to the belt grooves, but if you use the belt recommended ( 7PK1640) you will find this belt runs short, so you cannot get the belt over the keepers, all pulleys in nissans have keepers unlike everything else that has one pulley that the keeper is left off in order so you can get the new belt onto the pulley, the nissan engineers must have had a day off when designing this set up. This engine was partly designed by English engineers, This explains why there is problems as they really must be mummys boys to get them into engineering school, they create more problems with their designs, not solutions. So if you insist on the cheaper Gates tensioner then the recommended belt 7PK1640 will not fit, you need a 7PK1643 that is not available and the 7PK1645 is too large, it will fit but the tension will be too poor. The remedy using the cheaper tensioner is to remove the original pulley, replace the bearing and install the old pully to the new gates tensioner. This way when the belt breaks or after it's worn you will be able to get the correct belt when you quote your rego number or the other option you have is to buy the more expensive pulley or genuine pulley. The extra time needed to try and make this cheap tensioner fit far outweighs the extra cost of buying the tensioner that does fit. I've contacted Gates about this and they don't want to know about it, blaming this individual Patrol to my problem. But this is what i have experienced on at least 5 other models, so it's not a particular vehicle that causes this problem. It's the chinese lack of quailty that is infecting the automotive industry! My advise is buy a genuine belt tensioner or fork out a few extra for the correct size pulley, unless you want to go crazy rolling around on the grass in someone's driveway with dog shit stuck to your hair, is it really worth the stress?
|Posted on 22 October, 2019 at 20:45||comments (76)|
|Posted on 13 September, 2019 at 1:10||comments (10)|
|Posted on 21 July, 2019 at 2:20||comments (16)|
|Posted on 27 May, 2019 at 4:00||comments (10)|
I've been around a few years, i know the ins and outs of the Automotive Industry. I'm speaking from personal encounters with Local Car yards. I've been insulted by an offer one Car yard has offered for a trade against one of their vehicles against my vehicle as a trade. Now my 4WD is immaculate, nothing wrong with it, in fact a new gearbox installed 3 weeks ago, but the trade in price was $1500. The new gearbox is worth $3600. I rest my case.
I only wanted to trade down to a 2WD as I have no need for a 4WD and this is my work vehicle, it's spot on, it has to be! But dealing with these Morons really got my back up. I took it as an insult, then I remembered that once I advised one of my customers against buying from this Car Yard as the vehicle had a list of faults, I cost them a sale! Hence the reason for the insulting trade in price.
Seems I won't get a good trade in as they didn't like me joining there sales pitch with my customer. For that I make no apoligies. If I inspect a vehicle for the purchase from one of my customers and if I find faults, it's my duty to report ALL findings to my customer and advise with or against for the purchase or No Sale. If it doesn't pass, it doesn't pass.
So lets expose some sales tactics to the general public and if your saleperson uses these tactics, I strongly advise against using this salesperson.
1. Warranties. Every consumer that purchases a Used vehicle HAS to acknowledge that by consumer law they are given a statutory 30 day warranty. They upsell you a dealership warranty that has more clauses and conditions to that of a property purchase that makes it impossible to claim. They waste mechanics time asking for reports and quotes only to find it's not covered. Mr or Mrs consumer goes back to the Car yard to have the vehicle fixed but they get the buck pass back onto the warranty they forked out 100's for.
In other words they insist on selling you this warranty so when the shit box they are selling you breaks down they have an avenue of which to escape, they pass the buck onto your warranty only to find there's a clause that they won't pay for it. Do NOT buy one of these Warranties. You DO have normal consumer rights and a 30 day cooling off period by Queensland LAW. (They will not tell you this, the warranty they give you is there scape goat and designed to make it confusing when you use the word 'Warranty').
2. Stay away from vehicles that have no price. If you look at a vehicle that has no price then you don't have any control over the power of the sale. When you pull up outside they already know what your trade in will be, ask up front how much the car is and park a few meters down the road, don't answer any questions untill he/she has given you the purchase price. When you ask the price he/she will answer with another question, usually 'Do you have a trade?' Then he will give you the price. If he/she does this, walk away. Go to a different Car Yard with a price on the screen.
3. Used Car salespersons are not your friend. A Coffee and a chat is called 'Breaking the ice'. They have to seem interested in your life, but at the back of their minds they can't wait till you drive off with one of there pearlers. After the sale they don't want to hear from you again. That sounds cold, but it's the truth. They have more best friends coming to buy more Cars they have no time for your friendship.
4. Upsell. It's not enough that they buy a Car for 1500 and sell it for 10000, no they have to get comissions on all those usless 'extras' they feel the need to sell you while they write up the deal. Window Tint, side steps, alloy bodies, upgraded sound systems, battery systems, scotchguard seats, vinyl protection, rust proofing, paint protection the there's that all important clause to keep your warranty you have to service with them. You may as well give them a blank cheque. You will save 1000's getting extras for your car if you source those extras after the sale. Most of these extras are available online for a fraction of the cost, even EBay! Just concentrate on getting the car, it's fun to add the extras after the sale and you get your car looking exactly the way you want it. Not to mention the huge savings!
5. If you leave a Car yard thinking you got a bargain, chances are it's the salesperson who has the bargain. Thinking you are fully covered is NOT the same as actually being covered. do your research, don't trust a salesperson.
|Posted on 12 April, 2019 at 2:20||comments (10)|
I got some feedback with not stating my Service prices, there is a valid reason for this and much of the confusion is understanding what is exactly a Service.
A General Service is a Engine Oil and filter change check all safety related items, tyre inflation, grease tailshafts and electrical tests and a scan of the computer, I throw in a wash and tyre shine in most cases, weather permitting.
A Major Service is all Fluids, all filters, tune up, brake caliper lube, and the list is huge.
A log book Service is a Service that has to be done to keep a Warranty valid and has to be done as per the manufactors specifications and Instructions.
So when someone calls me to inquire about a price, it's important to know what kind of Service you need. Then I can Quote you.
Every kind of Service requires different kinds of Parts, Oils and Filters. It's vital that the grade of Oil recommended for your car is used, I use good quality Oils and filters and the correct weight of Oil.
Take the $100.00 special Service for example, lots of business around here do this 'Special Service' to fault find your car, get more work out of you and to be honest, some of the things they say that need to be done straight away can often wait and can be spread out to suit most peoples budgets, not with the cheapo service guy, he wants your money now! I've been in the Automotive trade for 37 years and am well aware of the tactics taken especially from dealerships to upsell you as much as possible, squeeze every cent they can out of you and basically lie there ass off to keep you coming back and paying, how do you think they keep those flash coffee machines and air con lounges going?.....YOU PAY FOR THAT.
I vowed never to do this with my business, people come to me for my Skills, not to be upsold and grab your last penny.
Back to the $100 Special Service. Think about it before you book your car in, the generic oil they use will go in your engine, the cheap chinese oil filter will be installed, then it's on to fill a page with problems so the so called Mechanic will get a good commission at the end of the month. There is no such thing as a generic oil suited for all cars, it HAS to be the correct spec of Oil for the engine you own, same with gear oils, coolants etc and the bulk Oil they use is low quality, I know of one business that uses recycled Oil. That's a big no no and besides this it's my policy not to do anything to someone else's car that I wouldn't do on my own car and my cars are immaculate.
So for me to give you a price, you need to be aware that I intend to give your car the best service possible and use the correct materials to give you better fuel economy and make you car last longer, same goes with any repair I do, I can provide a quote but the reason I do not advertise a Cheap Service is all cars are different and it's impossible to quote a generic price as I do not do generic servicing, I don't have bulk Oils and buy the correct parts and materials to suit your make and model. I can guarantee though that I will beat ANY dealership price on Servicing or Repairs with a 12/20 warranty, as I don't have that flash coffee machine or Air Con lounge, but my customers get a better job and more money in there pocket! That should be good enough reasons to choose Everything Mechanical.