Blogs and Tips
|Posted on 17 January, 2020 at 21:20||comments (1)|
When going to change a drive belt on these models they are a nightmare, Usually the little shock absorber tensioner fails and you will need to change the whole tensioner. People go for the cheaper part so the cheapest part is a Gates 39214 Drive belt tesioner, however when you buy this cheap part you need to add the drive belt that they say suits the pulley @ $90.00 as the pulley is larger than the original. Next problem is the design of this engine as all the pulleys the drive belt runs on have what we call belt keepers. Belt keepers are a higher ridge pulley designed to keep the belt true to the belt grooves, but if you use the belt recommended ( 7PK1640) you will find this belt runs short, so you cannot get the belt over the keepers, all pulleys in nissans have keepers unlike everything else that has one pulley that the keeper is left off in order so you can get the new belt onto the pulley, the nissan engineers must have had a day off when designing this set up. This engine was partly designed by English engineers, This explains why there is problems as they really must be mummys boys to get them into engineering school, they create more problems with their designs, not solutions. So if you insist on the cheaper Gates tensioner then the recommended belt 7PK1640 will not fit, you need a 7PK1643 that is not available and the 7PK1645 is too large, it will fit but the tension will be too poor. The remedy using the cheaper tensioner is to remove the original pulley, replace the bearing and install the old pully to the new gates tensioner. This way when the belt breaks or after it's worn you will be able to get the correct belt when you quote your rego number or the other option you have is to buy the more expensive pulley or genuine pulley. The extra time needed to try and make this cheap tensioner fit far outweighs the extra cost of buying the tensioner that does fit. I've contacted Gates about this and they don't want to know about it, blaming this individual Patrol to my problem. But this is what i have experienced on at least 5 other models, so it's not a particular vehicle that causes this problem. It's the chinese lack of quailty that is infecting the automotive industry! My advise is buy a genuine belt tensioner or fork out a few extra for the correct size pulley, unless you want to go crazy rolling around on the grass in someone's driveway with dog shit stuck to your hair, is it really worth the stress?
|Posted on 22 October, 2019 at 20:45||comments (75)|
|Posted on 13 September, 2019 at 1:10||comments (7)|
|Posted on 21 July, 2019 at 2:20||comments (16)|
|Posted on 27 May, 2019 at 4:00||comments (10)|
I've been around a few years, i know the ins and outs of the Automotive Industry. I'm speaking from personal encounters with Local Car yards. I've been insulted by an offer one Car yard has offered for a trade against one of their vehicles against my vehicle as a trade. Now my 4WD is immaculate, nothing wrong with it, in fact a new gearbox installed 3 weeks ago, but the trade in price was $1500. The new gearbox is worth $3600. I rest my case.
I only wanted to trade down to a 2WD as I have no need for a 4WD and this is my work vehicle, it's spot on, it has to be! But dealing with these Morons really got my back up. I took it as an insult, then I remembered that once I advised one of my customers against buying from this Car Yard as the vehicle had a list of faults, I cost them a sale! Hence the reason for the insulting trade in price.
Seems I won't get a good trade in as they didn't like me joining there sales pitch with my customer. For that I make no apoligies. If I inspect a vehicle for the purchase from one of my customers and if I find faults, it's my duty to report ALL findings to my customer and advise with or against for the purchase or No Sale. If it doesn't pass, it doesn't pass.
So lets expose some sales tactics to the general public and if your saleperson uses these tactics, I strongly advise against using this salesperson.
1. Warranties. Every consumer that purchases a Used vehicle HAS to acknowledge that by consumer law they are given a statutory 30 day warranty. They upsell you a dealership warranty that has more clauses and conditions to that of a property purchase that makes it impossible to claim. They waste mechanics time asking for reports and quotes only to find it's not covered. Mr or Mrs consumer goes back to the Car yard to have the vehicle fixed but they get the buck pass back onto the warranty they forked out 100's for.
In other words they insist on selling you this warranty so when the shit box they are selling you breaks down they have an avenue of which to escape, they pass the buck onto your warranty only to find there's a clause that they won't pay for it. Do NOT buy one of these Warranties. You DO have normal consumer rights and a 30 day cooling off period by Queensland LAW. (They will not tell you this, the warranty they give you is there scape goat and designed to make it confusing when you use the word 'Warranty').
2. Stay away from vehicles that have no price. If you look at a vehicle that has no price then you don't have any control over the power of the sale. When you pull up outside they already know what your trade in will be, ask up front how much the car is and park a few meters down the road, don't answer any questions untill he/she has given you the purchase price. When you ask the price he/she will answer with another question, usually 'Do you have a trade?' Then he will give you the price. If he/she does this, walk away. Go to a different Car Yard with a price on the screen.
3. Used Car salespersons are not your friend. A Coffee and a chat is called 'Breaking the ice'. They have to seem interested in your life, but at the back of their minds they can't wait till you drive off with one of there pearlers. After the sale they don't want to hear from you again. That sounds cold, but it's the truth. They have more best friends coming to buy more Cars they have no time for your friendship.
4. Upsell. It's not enough that they buy a Car for 1500 and sell it for 10000, no they have to get comissions on all those usless 'extras' they feel the need to sell you while they write up the deal. Window Tint, side steps, alloy bodies, upgraded sound systems, battery systems, scotchguard seats, vinyl protection, rust proofing, paint protection the there's that all important clause to keep your warranty you have to service with them. You may as well give them a blank cheque. You will save 1000's getting extras for your car if you source those extras after the sale. Most of these extras are available online for a fraction of the cost, even EBay! Just concentrate on getting the car, it's fun to add the extras after the sale and you get your car looking exactly the way you want it. Not to mention the huge savings!
5. If you leave a Car yard thinking you got a bargain, chances are it's the salesperson who has the bargain. Thinking you are fully covered is NOT the same as actually being covered. do your research, don't trust a salesperson.
|Posted on 12 April, 2019 at 2:20||comments (10)|
I got some feedback with not stating my Service prices, there is a valid reason for this and much of the confusion is understanding what is exactly a Service.
A General Service is a Engine Oil and filter change check all safety related items, tyre inflation, grease tailshafts and electrical tests and a scan of the computer, I throw in a wash and tyre shine in most cases, weather permitting.
A Major Service is all Fluids, all filters, tune up, brake caliper lube, and the list is huge.
A log book Service is a Service that has to be done to keep a Warranty valid and has to be done as per the manufactors specifications and Instructions.
So when someone calls me to inquire about a price, it's important to know what kind of Service you need. Then I can Quote you.
Every kind of Service requires different kinds of Parts, Oils and Filters. It's vital that the grade of Oil recommended for your car is used, I use good quality Oils and filters and the correct weight of Oil.
Take the $100.00 special Service for example, lots of business around here do this 'Special Service' to fault find your car, get more work out of you and to be honest, some of the things they say that need to be done straight away can often wait and can be spread out to suit most peoples budgets, not with the cheapo service guy, he wants your money now! I've been in the Automotive trade for 37 years and am well aware of the tactics taken especially from dealerships to upsell you as much as possible, squeeze every cent they can out of you and basically lie there ass off to keep you coming back and paying, how do you think they keep those flash coffee machines and air con lounges going?.....YOU PAY FOR THAT.
I vowed never to do this with my business, people come to me for my Skills, not to be upsold and grab your last penny.
Back to the $100 Special Service. Think about it before you book your car in, the generic oil they use will go in your engine, the cheap chinese oil filter will be installed, then it's on to fill a page with problems so the so called Mechanic will get a good commission at the end of the month. There is no such thing as a generic oil suited for all cars, it HAS to be the correct spec of Oil for the engine you own, same with gear oils, coolants etc and the bulk Oil they use is low quality, I know of one business that uses recycled Oil. That's a big no no and besides this it's my policy not to do anything to someone else's car that I wouldn't do on my own car and my cars are immaculate.
So for me to give you a price, you need to be aware that I intend to give your car the best service possible and use the correct materials to give you better fuel economy and make you car last longer, same goes with any repair I do, I can provide a quote but the reason I do not advertise a Cheap Service is all cars are different and it's impossible to quote a generic price as I do not do generic servicing, I don't have bulk Oils and buy the correct parts and materials to suit your make and model. I can guarantee though that I will beat ANY dealership price on Servicing or Repairs with a 12/20 warranty, as I don't have that flash coffee machine or Air Con lounge, but my customers get a better job and more money in there pocket! That should be good enough reasons to choose Everything Mechanical.
|Posted on 28 February, 2019 at 1:45||comments (5)|
I thought I would give my veiwers the run down on Thermostats, what they do, how they work and the importance of cooling system service. I often get vehicles with faulty Thermostats. Please see below pic of the cooling system to give you a broader view of what i'm trying to explain.
A Thermostat slows and speeds coolant flow in the form of a resistance valve (thermostat) to allow coolant to cool at a slower rate, keeping the vehicle at it's specified normal running temperature. Gone are the days when you can cut the center out of a thermostat to get you going. Overtemp especially with vehicles with alloy and plastic radiators are fragile and overtemp means overpressure, it can also blow gaskets and seals all over the cooling system.
To avoid your cooling system being damaged you can get it serviced and the thermostat replaced every 2 years, avoid putting water in your cooling system and only use a full concentrate 5ltr bottle, no water. Water is a corrosive it carves valleys in mountains and does the same to your cooling system, some of the chemicals in water such as chlorine and flouride have an effect on the chemicals in the coolant such as glycol, if you must top up with water, use a demineralized water. Use a top quality coolant such as Penrite. And pay the extra for a genuine Thermostat as most aftermarket thermostats open at a different temp.
Damage: A closed Thermostat can, and often causes headgasket failure, cylinder bore glaze and cracked cylinder heads, not to mention expanded cooling systems. If you have a faulty thermostat it won't always let you know by the temperature guage, depends on the design of the engine if they place the sensor before or after the thermostat, I wonder sometimes if these Mechanical Engineers actually use the brain required to become an engineer, some of the cooling systems on thes new cars are simply not made for Australian climate and road conditions, imports are imported with the full flow thermostats for colder climates, they run fast flow coolant and overtime (at the end of the warranty period) the cooling system starts to leak and breakdown due to years of overpressure, all because they are not bothered to install a slower flow thermostat for Australian conditions. Imports which are now all new cars are generically made and exported to the world, no cars are made for our conditions except Toyota. Holdens are no longer Australian, they are Euro, hang your head in shame Holden, you're filling the road with shitboxes.
So that's a pretty good run down of a Thermostat, don't let the backyarder cut the guts out of your thermostat and she'll be right mate, do the right thing and get your cooling system serviced by a qualified mechanic, a drain and re-fill is NOT a service!
|Posted on 6 November, 2018 at 1:25||comments (4)|
The dreaded Timing Belt, it's changed every 100 000 K.M. or 5 Years, some brands are changed every 130 000 but that's a lot to ask for a rubber belt that, if it breaks can be very costly. So I thought I would write about the importance of following this proceedure to the Tee.
What is a timing belt? A timing belt is a rubber belt that runs off the bottom of your engine (Pistons and Crank) and is perfectly timed via this belt to the top of the engine (Cams and Valves). As your engine rotates the belt keeps the top and bottom of your engine in perfect sync.
When this belt breaks, the cams stop (position of valves) but the crank keeps rotating, so the pistons impact the valves and can also damage the tops of the pistons as shown in the pics below.
When this kind of damage happens it's very expensive to Repair so if you have bought a used car and is around the KM's when the belt is due then my advice is get it done asap! Always try and do a full timing belt kit with a new water pump and oil seals, no way will an oil seal or water pump last another 100 000.
Cylinder damage for example on a Camry 5SFE with bent valves and a full rebuild can cost between $800 and $1800 depending on the extent of damage, then you have timing belt and all the trimmings so your bill could run into around $3000. To do a timing belt with water pump and all the seals and pulleys range from $800 to $1200 depending on make and model, euro's are more. This should not be attempted by the backyarder either, I constantly fix stuff ups from incorrect timing belts and always ends up costing a lot more than if he got a Mechanic to do it in the first place. Not every man is a Mechanic!
|Posted on 4 September, 2018 at 2:55||comments (0)|
If you are in the market for a second hand vehicle, bear this in mind, although it may be sound mechanically, automotive electrics wear out too. Most imports today are not made with heavy grade copper wire, in fact try and buy automotive wire with good quality copper, you will find it, but it's rare and if you find it you will pay dearly for it. We live in a world where quality is always sacrificed with price. Vehicle makers fall into a very competitive market, so it's natural that they will use cheap materials to cut the cost of the selling price, this also affects design as the vehicle they make are only designed to last the warranty period. After that you are on your own, even 2nd hand parts fall under the same catagory, they are worn and not designed to last any longer than the warranty period. Not everyone can afford a new car, however you should choose a car not older than 10 years old and under 200 000 K.M.
If you persist on taking the salespersons re-assurance that its in top condition then better put a handle on your wallet, you will need it to keep it handy trying to keep it fuctioning the way it should or the way it's designed to function, and the best come back a sales person has when you have trouble with the pearler you just bought is "Well it is a 2nd hand vehicle". I've been working on cars all my life and dealt with salespersons all my life, they even flash cash to let things slide or overlook something so they get the sale, i've never supported sales in any way shape or form, it's the driver of the vehicle i have in mind, both mechanically and financially. That's probably why they don't like me coming in their yards, they don't bother trying to butter me up i just say drop the gimmick mate i'm here to look at the car. So bear in mind that no matter how good a detail the car has, consider the facts or you will pay for it in the end. Stay away from dealership warranties too, they are the biggest rip off i've ever seen, every dealership warranty ive tried to claim for has been knocked back except one where they aggreed to pay for one (1) piston, no labour no materials, just a piston. These people pay over $700 for these rip off warranties and you may as well just put cash in there hand right there and then, they simply don't pay and waste not just your time but mine as well as they always ask for complexed reports that take time. So there you go, you want the truth about buying used then i've got nothing to gain by telling you a fib, have it checked out, but bear in mind, it's old and it's worn.
|Posted on 18 February, 2018 at 3:20||comments (24)|
Before you choose a Mechanic consider the costs and risk if you hire a backyarder. A long time ago everyone was a mechanic but there seems to be a guy getting around Cairns, calling himself a Mechanic and not spent one day of any kind of apprenticship to be able to claim the title 'Mechanic'. A dealership employ people to become a 'Technician' and they do not need a trade to have this title. But most are not Mechanic's, Technicians to work on the dealerships brand in a dealership yes, mechanics? most are not. This guy only deals in cash and his work vehicle is a sedan, he has no insurance and from what i've heard he claims centerlink benefits. Consider the costs to you if your Repair/Service fails, he won't honour his workmanship and you probably wouldn't be able to trace him anyway as you can't trace cash. Also consider the risk to you and your home if any damage occurred by him. No insurance = No compensation. And you won't find him if need be. He steals work from Mechanics that can't compete with his rates as he doesn't have to pay for insurances and taxes and the costs of running a legit Business. If i called a Tradesperson to do a job and they showed up in a small sedan and only dealt in cash alarm bells would be ringing. I hope you never have to be put in that situation that you will find yourself in if anything goes wrong. I didn't want to post this on my website as this is supposed to be mechanical tips and blogs but feel the need as this guy is an accident waiting to happen. Beware the Backyarder!